Surf Lesson

This week on ELLLO, Rebecca talks about life in Australia: the ocean and being in the sun. A favorite sunny ocean sport of many Australians is surfing. Here's a girl from California getting her first surf lesson.



She speaks fast so the first time you listen just try to understand the main idea. Then click below and read the text so you when you listen again you can hear each word.

Hey everyone, welcome to Mahalo daily, I'm Veronica Belmont and you know, I started working for Mahalo and everyone was like, "Oh, is that a Hawaiian company? Oh, are you going to do a video on how to surf?" I then I realized that I have lived in California for 3 years and I've never been in the Pacific Ocean deeper than my ankle so today friends, I'm gonna get out there and I'm gonna learn how to surf.

Alright, I boogie boarded as a kid, I can do this. Let's go. They don't look that big. This'll be great.

Have you ever done this before?
No.
You're gonna need some help.
Thanks, this is Even Kinkel and you're gonna teach me how to surf?
We're gonna try.
Alright, well it's better than nothing, let's go.

So which is even the front of the board, for starters.
Ok, well the front of the board is called the nose and the back of the board is called the tail.
Um, so how do I paddle out?
Well, when you are paddling out you want to get in the middle of the board -- every board has a sweet spot. You don't want to be too far up because you'll sink the nose. You don't want to be too far back because you won't be able to paddle...so, right here.

Ok. So like this and like that.
Exactly.
...doggie paddle

Alright, so now that I figured out how to paddle, how do you stand up?
Well, when you turn around and you catch the wave that you want. The first thing that you're going to need to know is if you are a goofy(strange) foot or a regular foot.
My feet are pretty goofy.
I'm a goofy foot myself but maybe take one step forward on your most strong foot. There you go. So it looks like you are regular foot.
If you put your left foot forward first you are a regular foot?

So how do I actually get up.? Does it just take a lot of practice before...
It's kind of like a push-up. Why don't you lay on the board and we'll give it a shot.

So I'm paddling, paddling, paddling...

Yep, and then one push-up. Then bring the knee forward that you were going to stand up on and then just get up the rest of the way.
So just kind of go like that? And then I'm surfing, man!
That's pretty much it.

So what's all this crud all over your surfboard?
Well, Veronica, after you graduate from the longboard, you're going to move on to a short board. So you're gonna have to learn how to wax it.
Ok. So this just built up wax from a lot of other uses?
Yeah, basically.
And why do you wax it?
It just traction for when you stand up on the board.
So it keeps your feet from slipping off when your surfing?
Exactly.

So what are we waiting for?
For the perfect wave to slide on.

So this is the leash, right?
Yes it is. This is important, so when you fall, your board is going to be close to you.
Yeah, so does it matter which foot I put it on?
Yeah, definitely, so stand facing the front of the board again. So we're gonna put it right here on your back foot. There you go, you're ready.
Alright, I think we're ready to give it a shot. (ready to try)
Let's do it.

Why are these things so heavy? Let's go.

So as you can see, I'm not exactly Kelly Slater or anything, I mean, I got up on my knees which was a good start. You know, I think the water here is pretty cold and it's kind of...the waves aren't that great, I think maybe if they send me to Hawaii I may do a little bit of a better job with the whole surfing instruction. Yeah, Hawaii. I'm Veronica Belmont, I'll see you next time.